Go to the Chololate Log (finally) after missing it for the last 3 days; little raised covered terrace in the middle of thick foliage, it looks out on the hillside on the quietest part of town. People sitting in ones (at most twos) and quietly reading, having coffee.
Classic Sunday Morning Breakfast scene.
Have our last Tibetan lunch at the Snow Lion - veg kothays - buy up some souvenirs, and head back for Pathankot. It's a somewhat depressing journey; everyone is tired, quiet, the dusk is coming on, and the mountains are falling further and further behind, except for one hauntingly beautiful image of a pair of brilliant white birds keeping pace with our car along the ravine, glowing in the last rays of the sun against the rushing dark brown of water & earth.